I admit the inspiration for this cardigan came from the color of the yarn! I purchased this cherry-colored yarn and the name "Cherry Bomber" was too cute to pass up. I researched what classic retro bomber jackets looked like, and I wanted to imitate one as best as I could. I even incorporated the striped collar and cuff ribbing!
This was the first time I ever made "inside" pockets, but they were much easier than I thought. The stitch I used looks a little like quilting to me, which gives the cardigan an even cozier look. Full video tutorial is linked below.
Level:
Intermediate
Sizing:
Semi-fitted, cardigan pictured is size small.
Materials:
1 ball (approx. 1020 yds.) of Lion Brand Pound of Love Yarn in the color Claret
Or any size 4 weight yarn that is on the "fluffier" side.
Small amount of contrast yarn for ribbing
Size L/8 mm. Crochet Hook
Size J/6 mm. Crochet Hook
Guage:
Using L hook - 8 sts and 8 rows of Suzette stitch = 4"
Stitches used:
Suzette Stitch - sc, dc in stitch indicated, skip one stitch, sc, dc in next stitch. Sc - Single crochet
Dc - Double crochet
Hdc - Half double crochet
Sl st - Slip stitch
Fphdc - Front post hdc - stitch is worked around post of stitch from previous row inserting hook from the front.
Bphdc - Back post hdc - stitch is worked around post of stitch from previous row inserting hook from the back.
Sc3tog - [Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull loop through stitch] 3 times (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw yarn through all 4 loops on hook. Completed sc3tog - 2 stitches decreased.
**Sizing Notes: Instructions below are for size small.
Finished back is approx. 19" across when laid flat.
Cardigan is approx. 21" long.
I will give instructions on how to make larger below. Larger sizing notes will be marked where you see **
First Front :
(Make 2) - Piece is worked vertically, from the side toward the center.
With L hook, start with a slip knot, and loosely chain 40 for size small.
**If you need to make the cardigan longer, you may add extra chains. Every 2 chains will add about an inch of length.
R1- Sc in second chain from hook, and in each chain across (39 sc)
*Note: I prefer to work into the "back bump" of the chain - it's easier to work into later.
R2- Ch 1, turn, sc, dc in first stitch. *Skip 1 st, sc, dc in next stitch (Suzette stitch). Repeat from * across, ending with a sc in last stitch.
Rows 3 - 9 Repeat row 2. **If you need to make garment wider, you may add extra rows here. Every 2 rows adds about an inch of width. So, if you add 2 rows extra to each of the fronts, that's 2" more width overall.
R10- Ch 1, turn, sc, dc in first st, skip on st, sc, dc in next st, skip one st, sc in next stitch. Ch 10, skip 11 stitches (This begins the hole for the pocket). Continue in suzette stitch until you reach the last 4 stitches (Your last sc, dc will be in the 5th stitch from the end) Skip one stitch, sc3tog over last 3 stitches. First decrease is completed for v-neck.
R11- Ch 1, turn, continue in suzette stitch until you reach the ch 10 from previous row. (Your last sc, dc will be in the last st before the ch 10) Work 10 single crochets over the chain 10. Resume suzette stitch in next stitch, and to end of row.
R12- Ch 1, turn, continue in suzette stitch until you reach the last 4 stitches. Skip one stitch, sc3tog over last 3 stitches. (Decreases will be at the end of every even numbered row)
R13- Ch 1, turn, continue in suzette stitch across the row.
Rows 14-16 Repeat rows 12, and 13, ending with row a row 12.
R17- Repeat row 13. Chain 5 at the end of the row.
R18- Ch 1, turn, single crochet in first stitch, and in next 3 stitches. Continue in suzette stitch until you reach the last 4 stitches. Skip one stitch, sc3tog over last 3 stitches.
R19- Ch 1, turn, continue in suzette stitch across the row.
R20- Ch 1, turn, continue in suzette stitch until you reach the last 4 stitches. Skip one stitch, sc3tog over last 3 stitches.
R21- Ch 1, turn, continue in suzette stitch across the row.
Back:
Back panel is worked horizontally.
Loosely chain 40 for size small.
**If you made the front panels wider, you'll need to add more chains. For every extra row you added to the front panels, add an extra chain. So, if you added an extra 4 rows (2 rows per front panel), add 4 more chains to the chain 40.
R1- Sc in second chain from hook, and in each chain across (39 sc)
*Note: I prefer to work into the "back bump" of the chain - it's easier to work into later.
R2- Ch 1, turn, sc, dc in first stitch. *Skip 1 st, sc, dc in next stitch (Suzette stitch). Repeat from * across, ending with a sc in last stitch.
Repeat row 2 until piece is the same length as the width (a perfect square). My piece was 19" x 19". **Or if you made the front panels longer, match the same length as the front panels.
Pockets:
*We're making long "flaps" that will form the pocket on the inside of the cardigan. Instructions are the same for both front panels.
R1- Working along the edge opposite of the chain 10 row, join yarn into the stitch to the right of the first unworked stitch (this stitch was already worked into before). Ch 1, sc, dc in this stitch, skip 1 stitch, continue in suzette stitch along pocket edge, ending with a sc in the stitch that's to the left of the last unworked stitch. (13 sts along pocket edge)
Rows 2-18 Ch 1, turn, continue in suzette stitch across row, ending with a sc in last stitch.
Tuck flaps to inside of cardigan, fold in half and stitch short edge to the other edge of the pocket (the chain 10 side). Stitch top and bottom edges of the pocket together.
Shoulder Seams:
Lay down back panel with your row 1 along the top, and place your 2 fronts on top with right sides up. Stitch shoulder seams.
Sleeves:
Open up garment with shoulder seam in front of you. Place 2 stitch markers, 16" apart, centered at the shoulder seam.
R1- Join yarn at first stitch marker, chain 1, work 33 suzette stitches evenly between stitch markers. So, 16 stitches on either side of seam, and one stitch centered on the seam.
Rows 2 - 10 Chain 1, turn, continue in suzette stitch, ending with a sc in last stitch.
R11- (Decrease row) Ch 1, turn, sc3tog over the first 3 stitches, dc in same stitch. Skip one stitch, continue in suzette stitch across row, ending with a sc in last stitch. Place stitch markers at the beginning of each of the decrease rows, it will be easier to count rows. *Note the decrease rows are at the beginning of every 5th row. There is no decrease at the end of the row.
R12- Ch 1, turn, continue in suzette stitch, ending with a sc in last stitch.
Rows 13-15, 17-20, 22-25, 27-30, 32-35 Repeat row 12 (even suzette stitch rows).
Rows 16, 21, 26, 31, and 36 Repeat row 11(decrease rows).
Your last row 36 should have 19 stitches. If you need to make your sleeve longer, you can add extra even suzette stitch rows here.
Fold cardigan along sleeves and stitch underarm and side seams.
Collar:
R1- Using J hook, on right side of garment, attach main color yarn to lower point of V neckline. Chain 1, hdc in same stitch, evenly hdc around neck edge to other lower point of V neckline. The smaller hook will tighten up the collar a great deal. When you reach the last hdc stitch, begin stitch, but drop your yarn and pull through a strand of your contrast color through the last 3 loops on the hook.
R2- (In contrast color) Ch 1, turn, hdc in first stitch. *Fphdc in next stitch. Bphdc in next stitch. Repeat from * across row, ending with an hdc in last stitch.
R3- Repeat row 2, but your fphdc's will be around the stitches that pop out to the front, and the bphdc's will around the stitches that pop out to the back. When you reach last stitch, drop your contrast yarn, and bring up your main color yarn and pull through the last 3 loops on your hook.
R4- Chain 1, turn, sc in first stitch. Continue with fphdc, and bphdc (like row 3), and end with a sc in last stitch. Finish off yarn.
Bottom Ribbing:
R1- Still using J hook, on right side of garment, join main color yarn to bottom of cardigan in first unworked stitch to the left of the front extension. Ch 1, hdc along bottom edge and stop in last unworked stitch before other extension. In last stitch, pull through contrast color through last 3 loops on hook.
Rows 2-3 (Contrast color) proceed in same manner as collar ribbing.
R4- (Main color) Ch 1, turn, hdc in first stitch, continue ribbing in same manner, ending with hdc in last stitch.
R5- Ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch. Continue ribbing in same manner, ending with a sc in last stitch. Do not finish off. Keep using J hook for rest of border row.
Continue with single crochets evenly along bottom edge of first extension (you'll stitch up the gap between the extension and ribbing later). Chain 1, and sc along first front edge of cardigan. When you reach collar, do not chain 1, just turn and sc in the first 2 stitches, creating a "rounded" corner. Continue with fphdc's and bphdc's along collar, and "round off" the other end of collar when you turn the corner. Continue with sc's along other front edge. Ch 1 when you reach bottom edge, and sc along bottom of other front extension. Join to other end of bottom ribbing.
Cuffs:
R1- Using j hook, join main color yarn to bottom of first sleeve at seam. Ch 1, hdc in each stitch around. Insert hook into first stitch, drop yarn, pull through contrast color yarn through the stitch and the remaining loop on your hook.
R2- (Contrast color) Ch 1, turn, hdc in first stitch. Alternate fphdc and bphdc around (like the other ribbing we've been doing). Hdc in last stitch, join to first stitch.
R3- Ch 1, turn, hdc in first stitch. Alternate fphdc and bphdc around (like the other ribbing we've been doing). Hdc in last stitch, insert hook into first stitch, drop yarn, pull through main color yarn through the stitch and the remaining loop on your hook.
Rows 4&5 (Main color) Repeat row 2.
Finishing:
Now you can stitch up the gaps that are between the front extensions and the bottom ribbing. It is also a good idea to stitch down the folded edge of the pocket close to the front edge of the cardigan so they stay in place.
Enjoy your unique and retro bomber cardigan!
Watch full video tutorial here!
Comments