top of page
Search
  • Writer's pictureLiz

Sweet Heart Sweater

Here is an easy and adorable little pullover sweater top you can make for Valentine's Day, or any time, with any color combination you choose! I am so proud of this one because I think I actually invented a way to make heart stitches upside-down (because it's a top-down raglan).


top down crochet short sleeve raglan sweat with heart stitches

Full video tutorial is linked below.

Level:

Easy Intermediate

Sizing:

Semi-fitted. Directions below are for size small, further instructions for making a larger size are included at **.

Materials:

2 colors of size 4 weight yarn. Approx. 500 yards of main color.

Size I / 5.5 mm crochet hook

Size H/5 mm crochet hook

Guage:

Using I hook - 14 stitches and 7 rows = 4"

Stitches used:

Sc - Single crochet

Dc - Double crochet

Hdc - Half double crochet

Fphdc - Front post hdc - stitch is worked around post of stitch from previous row inserting hook from the front.

Bphdc - Back post hdc - stitch is worked around post of stitch from previous row inserting hook from the back.

Fpdc - Front post dc.

Stacked sc - Used as first dc in row indicated. Sc in first stitch, turn your sc to the side and sc again in the 2 side loops.

Increase - 2 dc's in the next 2 stitches

Hdc2tog - yo, insert your hook into st, pull through a loop, yo, insert hook into next stitch, pull through a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook.


Collar: (Using main color)

R1- Chain 85, hdc in second chain from hook, and in each chain across (84 hdc). Bring 2 ends of row one together (without twisting) and join to first stitch. You will stitch up the gap between the beginning and end of starting chain with the tail later.


R2- Chain 1, turn, *fphdc around the first stitch. Bphdc around second stitch. Repeat from * across row, ending with a bphdc around last stitch. Join to first stitch.


Yoke:

Note: The yoke and body is stitched in joined rounds without turning


R1- Chain 1, DO NOT TURN, in same stitch as join, make a stacked sc. Dc in the next 9 stitches. *Increase (see above), dc in the next 19 sts, repeat from * 3 times. Increase, dc in last 9 sts, making sure to ignore the joining stitch. Join to first stitch.


R2- Chain 1, DO NOT TURN, in same stitch as join, make a stacked sc. Dc in each stitch until you reach the increase from previous row. You will increase over the middle 2 stitches (stitch 2 and 3 of the group of 4) of the previous row's increase. Repeat to end of row. Join to first stitch (ignoring joining stitch).


Rows 3-7 repeat row 2. You should have 140 stitches at the end of row 7. You may finish off your yarn at this point.


R8- Heart Stitch Row- On right side in second stitch from previous row (the stitch next to the stacked sc), join your contrast color yarn. Chain 3, (yo, insert hook into same st, pull through a loop, yo, pull through the first 2 loops on hook) 2 times. Skip 2 stitches, (yo, insert hook into same st, pull through a loop, yo, pull through the first 2 loops on hook) 3 times, yo, pull through all 6 loops on your hook. First heart stitch made. *Chain 5, skip 1 stitch, (yo, insert hook into same st, pull through a loop, yo, pull through the first 2 loops on hook) 3 times, skip 2 stitches, (yo, insert hook into same st, pull through a loop, yo, pull through the first 2 loops on hook) 3 times, yo, pull through 7 loops on hook. Repeat from * across the row, ending with a chain 5, join to top of first heart stitch. Finish off yarn.


R9- Place a stitch marker at the center of each of the 4 hearts located at each "corner" (at the increases) of yoke. You should have 6 hearts in-between each corner heart.

Join your main color yarn to the chain 5 space that's located at the center of your original joining seam. Chain 1, stacked sc and dc in same chain space. Fpdc around the "base" of the heart stitch below. (Think of the heart cluster as one post, and you'll be making your dc around that "post"). [*Dc 4 times in next chain 5 space. Fpdc around next heart cluster. Repeat from * ending with 4 dc's in ch 5 space just before next stitch marker. *Dc 5 times in next chain 5 space. Fpdc around next heart cluster. Repeat from * ending with 5 dc's in ch 5 space just before next stitch marker.] Repeat instructions between the brackets [ ] one more time. *Dc 4 times in next chain 5 space. Fpdc around next heart cluster. Repeat from * ending with 2 dc's in original ch 5 space, join to first stitch.


R10- Chain 1, DO NOT TURN, in same stitch as join, make a stacked sc. *Dc in each stitch until you reach stitch marker. Dc 3 times in same stitch as stitch marker. Repeat from * and dc to end of row. Join to first stitch.


R11- Chain 1, in same stitch as join, make a stacked sc. *Dc in each stitch until you reach the increase from previous row. Dc 3 times in center stitch of that increase. Repeat from * and dc to end of row. Join to first stitch.


Rows 12-16 Repeat row 11.


**Sizing Information** Now turn yoke so the joining seam is now the side seam. Lay flat and measure the front edge. My edge turned out to be 17.5" for a size small. If you need to make your sweater larger, keep repeating row 11 until the front edge is as wide as you need. Keep in mind each row will add an extra 2" in total circumference to the yoke, or 1" of width to the body section when laid flat. You should take your bust measurement and divide by 2, and use that as a guide to how wide the front should be.


Body:

Place a stitch marker each of the 4 increases you made in the last row. You can decide wear to put the markers, I put mine 1 stitch beyond the markers to make the front and back just a bit wider.


R1- Finish off yarn and re-join yarn at first stitch marker on right side at lower front of yoke. Chain 1, stacked sc, dc in each stitch and into the next marked stitch. Skip sleeve section, dc in next stitch marker, dc in each stitch and into the next marked stitch, skip next sleeve section, join to first stitch.


R2- Ch 1, stacked sc, dc in each st. Join to first stitch.


Repeat row 2 of body until desired length. Keep in mind the contrast ribbing at the bottom will add 2.5" I made mine 8" from underarm to bottom of main color.


Bottom Ribbing:

With the contrast yarn, join to side seam, chain 10. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across (9 sc). *Slip stitch into the next 2 unworked stitches from body, turn your work to the left (no turning chain), skip the 2 slip stitches, sc into the back loops of the sc's you just created. Turn to the right without a turning chain, sc into the back loops across. Repeat from * around body. When you reach the end, you may either slip stitch into the front loops of the 2 ends of the ribbing, or stitch together.


Sleeve Cuffs:

R1- If you want your cuffs a bit tighter, switch to a smaller (size H) hook. Join main color yarn to wrong side of first sleeve at stitch marker. Ch 1, *hdc2tog in first stitch, hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around sleeve. Your last hdc will be in the other stitch marker. Join to first stitch.


R2- Chain 1, turn, *fphdc around the post of the decrease from first row. Bphdc around next stitch. Repeat from * around row. Join to first stitch. Finish off yarn. Repeat for other sleeve. Be sure to stitch up the little gap under the arm with the tail!


Weave in all your ends.


Enjoy your beautiful sweater!





top down crochet short sleeve raglan sweat with heart stitches


top down crochet short sleeve raglan sweat with heart stitches



242 views0 comments

Recent Posts

See All

Comentários


bottom of page